Alexandria Citywalk: 3-Day Itinerary — Mediterranean Jewel of Millennia

Overview

Alexandria, Egypt's second city, founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC — once the intellectual capital of the ancient world. Lonely Planet calls it "Egypt's most European city." Three days to stroll the Corniche, descend into Roman catacombs, stand where the Pharos Lighthouse once rose, and taste Mediterranean seafood at the fish market.

Best Season: Mar–May, Sep–Nov Budget: ~3,000–5,000 EGP per person Transport: 2.5 hrs from Cairo by train; Uber convenient in-city

Day 1: Ancient Wonders — Catacombs × Roman Theatre × Citadel

Morning: Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa

Tickets: 80 EGP

One of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. 2nd-century AD Roman-Egyptian underground tombs in a three-level spiral descent. Frescoes blending Egyptian deities with Greco-Roman art.

Lunch: Traditional Egyptian

Koshari: Rice + pasta + lentils + spicy tomato + fried onion (25–40 EGP)
Falafel (Ta'ameya): Fava bean patties in pita (15 EGP)

Afternoon: Roman Theatre + Qaitbay Citadel

Roman Theatre (Kom El Dekka): 2nd-century semicircular amphitheater with 12 marble seating tiers. "Villa of the Birds" mosaic floor. 60 EGP.

Qaitbay Citadel (1477): Built on the ruins of the ancient Pharos Lighthouse. White Mediterranean fortress with sweeping sea views. Best at sunset. 60 EGP.

Day 2: Temple of Knowledge × Royal Gardens

Morning: Bibliotheca Alexandrina

Tickets: 70 EGP

Rebuilt 2002 — 11-story circular building inscribed with text in 120 languages, housing 8 million books. Must-see: Manuscript Museum, Sadat Museum, Planetarium Science Center. Allow 2–3 hours.

Afternoon: Montazah Palace Gardens

Tickets: 25 EGP

Former royal summer palace, 150 hectares of Mediterranean gardens. Date palms, flower lawns, private beaches. King Farouk's palace overlooks turquoise coves.

Evening: Alexandria Corniche

26km Mediterranean waterfront promenade stretching from Qaitbay to Montazah. Rent a horse-drawn carriage at sunset — sea breeze and golden light.

Day 3: Old Town × Seafood Feast

Morning: Anfushi District + Royal Jewelry Museum

Anfushi: Alexandria's oldest quarter — maze of narrow alleys, Ottoman-era buildings, traditional ahwas (coffee houses), copper workshops.

Royal Jewelry Museum: Princess Fatima's palace converted to showcase Muhammad Ali dynasty jewels — diamond tiaras, emerald necklaces, gold tableware. 100 EGP.

Lunch: Alexandria Fish Market

Mediterranean seafood is Alexandria's soul. Pick fresh fish at the market, cooked next door:

Grilled Sea Bream/Bass: Olive oil + lemon (~80–120 EGP/person)
Sayadiyah: Saffron rice with fried fish (~50 EGP)
Fried shrimp/squid: (~60 EGP)
Alexandrian pastries: Delices patisserie (since 1922), ~40 EGP

Afternoon: Pompey's Pillar

27m red granite column (297 AD), Alexandria's tallest surviving ancient monument. 60 EGP.

Optional: Greco-Roman Museum (reopened 2023), chronicling Alexandria's millennium as the center of Hellenistic civilization. 150 EGP.

Practical Info

Transportation

Cairo→Alexandria: Train 2.5 hrs (first class ~120 EGP), bus 2–3 hrs
In-city: Uber convenient (~20–40 EGP short trips)
Tram: Historic and fun, 5 EGP

Accommodation

Seafront: Four Seasons / Steigenberger Cecil, 1,500–4,000 EGP
Mid-range: Near Qaitbay, 600–1,200 EGP
Budget: Anfushi guesthouses, 200–500 EGP

Food Map

Seafood: Fish Market, Zephyrion
Koshari: Abu Ashraf
Pastries: Delices (since 1922)
Coffee: Cafe Trianon, Brazilian Coffee Stores
Stuffed Pigeon: Alexandria specialty

Tips

Summer (Jun–Aug) hot and humid — loose cotton clothing
Cover shoulders and knees in mosques/churches
Bargaining expected in markets (start at 1/3 asking price)
Bottled water essential — avoid tap water and street ice
Friday is weekend — some sites open afternoon only
Solo women: conservative dress recommended

Alexandria — a city carved by time. Three days from underground catacombs to a modern library, from the phantom lighthouse to Mediterranean sunsets — Alexandria's ancient glory still breathes in the sea breeze.