Batticaloa City Walk Guide: Singing Fish and the Poetic Slow Life of the Eastern Coast Lagoons

Batticaloa is located in Sri Lanka's Eastern Province, about 303 kilometers from Colombo, a coastal town surrounded by lagoons and ocean. The city's name derives from the Tamil "Mattakkalappu," meaning "muddy swamp" — because the town is built on a narrow strip of land between three major lagoons (Batticaloa Lagoon, Valaichenai Lagoon, and Urukkam Lagoon) and the sea.

Batticaloa's most famous legend is the "Singing Fish" in the lagoon — said to produce musical sounds on full moon nights when standing at specific spots along the lagoon shore. This legend has been partially confirmed by science: certain fish and crustaceans in the lagoon do produce sounds, but in Batticaloa, people prefer to believe it's a mysterious natural phenomenon.

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami devastated Batticaloa, but the city has been rebuilt. Compared to popular tourist destinations on the west and south coasts, Batticaloa has virtually no foreign tourists — it retains authentic Sri Lankan eastern coastal life: fishermen casting nets in the lagoon, women drying fish on the beach, children playing in the shallows.

Batticaloa is also an important center of Sri Lankan Tamil culture. The city's population is predominantly Tamil, with street signs and conversations in Tamil — a striking contrast to the Sinhalese-dominated west and south.

🚶 Day 1: Dutch Fort and Lagoon Sunset

Batticaloa Dutch Fort

Batticaloa Fort was built by the Portuguese in 1628, then captured and rebuilt by the Dutch in 1638. The fort sits on a small island in the lagoon, surrounded by water on all sides, accessible only via a small bridge.

The fort's walls are well-preserved, constructed from coral stone and brick. Inside the walls are several colonial-era buildings, including a Dutch Reformed Church ruin and government offices. Climbing the ramparts provides 360-degree views of the lagoon and surroundings.

The fort is free to visit and open all day.

Lagoon Sunset Boat Ride

Batticaloa Lagoon is the city's most important natural feature. Covering about 120 square kilometers, it's separated from the ocean by a narrow sandbar. The lagoon surface is calm as a mirror, reflecting the sky and surrounding palm trees.

At dusk, rent a small boat (about 1,000-2,000 LKR/hour) and slowly paddle through the lagoon. The sunset paints the water orange-red, fishing boats silhouette in the distance, and seabirds circle overhead. This is Batticaloa's most poetic moment.

If it's a full moon, the boatman will take you to the "singing fish" spot — inserting a bamboo pole into the water and pressing your ear to the other end, you can supposedly hear underwater "songs."

Batticaloa Lighthouse

Batticaloa Lighthouse stands on the seafront in the northern part of town, built in 1913 during British colonial times. Still operational, the white tower is a Batticaloa landmark. A quiet beach surrounds it, perfect for walking and sunset viewing.

🚶 Day 2: Pasikuda Beach and Coral Snorkeling

Pasikuda Beach

Pasikuda Beach is about 35 kilometers north of Batticaloa, one of the eastern coast's most beautiful beaches. The horseshoe-shaped bay displays water in graduated shades from light green to deep blue in sunlight. Most remarkably, the water is very shallow — you can walk hundreds of meters out to sea with water only reaching your waist, perfect for families and non-swimmers.

Pasikuda was quiet after the 2004 tsunami but has recently revived with several high-quality resorts. Compared to southwest coast beaches like Mirissa and Unawatuna, Pasikuda remains much quieter.

Safety note: The eastern coast has rip currents from June-September; observe safety flags when swimming.

Coral Snorkeling

The waters near Pasikuda offer coral snorkeling. While the reefs aren't as spectacular as the Maldives, coral varieties are rich, with tropical fish, starfish, and sea cucumbers. Snorkeling gear can be rented on the beach (about 500-800 LKR).

If conditions allow, diving is also possible (certification required), revealing deeper coral gardens and shipwrecks.

🚶 Day 3: Kallady and Tamil Culture

Kallady

Kallady is Batticaloa's old town, across the lagoon. It preserves traditional Tamil architecture and lifestyle. Narrow, winding streets are lined with colorful Tamil-style houses, their doorways adorned with intricate kolam patterns — traditional decorations drawn with rice flour.

Kallady's Old Bridge (Kallady Bridge) is one of Batticaloa's iconic structures — an iron bridge built during British colonial times connecting old and new towns. This bridge is also the traditional spot for listening to the "singing fish."

Koneswaram Temple

Koneswaram Temple is an important Hindu temple in the Batticaloa area (note: the main Koneswaram Temple is in Trincomalee; this is an important local branch). The temple is vibrantly colored, with the tower gate (Gopuram) covered in intricate carvings of Hindu deities.

Remove shoes and wear modest clothing covering shoulders and knees. Hindu ceremonies typically occur at dawn and dusk — the best times to visit.

Local Market

Batticaloa's Central Market is a great place to experience local life. The market sells tropical fruits, vegetables, spices, and fresh-caught seafood. Eastern coast seafood is especially fresh and cheap — a large crab about 300-500 LKR, a kilogram of prawns about 600-1,000 LKR.

🍜 Food Recommendations

Must-Try List

Crab Curry — Eastern coast crabs are large and fresh, curry-cooked to perfection. About 400-800 LKR
Prawn Fried Rice — Fresh sea prawns with spiced fried rice. About 350-500 LKR
Fish Rotti — Local breakfast specialty. About 150-250 LKR
Pittu — Traditional Tamil food, cylindrical steamed rice flour and coconut. About 100-150 LKR
String Hoppers — Rice noodle nests with coconut milk curry. About 80-150 LKR
Fresh Fruit Juice — Mango, pineapple, papaya. About 100-200 LKR

Recommended Restaurants

Batticaloa Sea Food Restaurant — Best seafood restaurant in town. Main courses about 400-800 LKR
Sinoya Restaurant — Tamil cuisine, known for pittu and crab curry. About 300-500 LKR
Main Street Roadside Stalls — Cheap, authentic local snacks. About 100-250 LKR
Pasikuda Beach Restaurants — Beachside dining, especially fresh crab and prawns. About 400-700 LKR

🚄 Transport Guide

How to Get There

From	Transport	Duration	Cost
Colombo	Bus	About 7-8 hours	About 300-400 LKR
Colombo	Private car	About 6 hours	About 14,000-18,000 LKR
Kandy	Bus	About 5 hours	About 250 LKR
Trincomalee	Bus	About 3 hours	About 150 LKR
Arugam Bay	Bus	About 2 hours	About 100 LKR

Local Transport

Tuk-Tuk: Around town about 100-300 LKR, to Pasikuda about 1,000-1,500 LKR
Public bus: To Pasikuda about 30 LKR
Motorcycle: About 800-1,000 LKR/day
Bicycle: About 300-500 LKR/day

Best Time to Visit

Dry season (May-September): Best season for east coast, sunny with calm seas
Rainy season (October-March): Frequent rain, some roads may flood
Note: East coast best season is opposite to west coast

💡 Practical Tips

East coast dry season = West coast rainy season: Note seasonal differences when planning
Respect Tamil culture: Batticaloa is predominantly Tamil; be mindful of cultural differences
Bargain at seafood market: Ask prices first, can negotiate 20-30% off
Lagoon boat ride best at sunset: 4:30-6:00 PM is the golden hour
Pasikuda shallow water is very safe: Perfect for families and non-swimmers
Bring mosquito repellent: More insects near the lagoon
Learn a few Tamil words: Locals appreciate tourists speaking Tamil ("Vanakkam" = hello)
Weekend seafood market is freshest: Fishermen's catch is largest on Saturdays and Sundays
Lighthouse beach is perfect for morning runs: Few people, beautiful scenery
Full moon night fish listening: Limited scientific basis, but a unique experience

💰 Budget Reference

Item	Cost (LKR)
Accommodation (budget)	1,500-3,000/night
Accommodation (mid-range)	4,000-8,000/night
Lagoon boat ride	1,000-2,000/hour
Snorkeling gear rental	500-800
Meal	300-600
Bus to Pasikuda	30

Three-day budget (excluding transport to Batticaloa):

Budget: About 15,000-25,000 LKR
Mid-range: About 30,000-45,000 LKR

Batticaloa is Sri Lanka's most underrated destination. While tourists worldwide crowd southwest coast beaches, Batticaloa quietly guards its lagoons and legends. Whether singing fish truly exist doesn't matter — what matters is that in this fast-paced world, people still stand by the lagoon on full moon nights, insert a bamboo pole into the water, press their ear to it, and patiently wait for underwater songs. This patience and faith in beautiful things is what Batticaloa truly wants to teach travelers.