Huaian 3-Day Guide: Capital of China's Grand Canal — Zhou Enlai's Hometown & Huaiyang Culinary Journey
Schwarz
Huaian 3-Day Guide: Capital of China's Grand Canal — Zhou Enlai's Hometown & Huaiyang Culinary Journey
Huaian, located in north-central Jiangsu Province, sits at the intersection of the ancient Huai River and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, right on the famous "Qinling-Huaihe" geographic dividing line between northern and southern China. A National Historic and Cultural City, Huaian is hailed as the "Capital of China's Grand Canal." This 2,500-year-old city gave birth to legendary military strategist Han Xin, Journey to the West author Wu Cheng'en, and most notably, China's beloved Premier Zhou Enlai. As one of the birthplaces of Huaiyang cuisine — one of China's Four Great Culinary Traditions — and the hometown of the wildly popular card game Guandan ("No Guandan before dinner? Then you haven't really eaten!"), Huaian is a hidden gem that seamlessly weaves canal heritage, revolutionary history, and gastronomic excellence into an unforgettable travel experience.
🚄 Transportation Guide
Getting to Huaian
- High-Speed Rail: Huaian East Station (淮安东站) is a key stop on the Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Rail Line 2. From Nanjing South Station approximately 1 hour (Second Class ¥90), from Shanghai Hongqiao approximately 2.5 hours (Second Class ¥180), from Beijing South approximately 4 hours (Second Class ¥350)
- Air: Huaian Lianshui International Airport (HIA) offers direct flights to Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Chengdu, Xi'an, and other major cities. Airport shuttle bus to downtown costs ¥15-20
- By Car: Well-connected via Jinghu Expressway, Ninglian Expressway, and several other highways. Drive from Nanjing takes about 2 hours
Getting Around the City
- Public Bus: Covers major attractions, ¥2 per ride (Alipay accepted)
- Taxi / Ride-Hailing: Flagfall ¥9, typical trips between city attractions cost ¥15-30
- Shared Bikes: HelloBike and Meituan Bikes widely available for short-distance travel
- Tourist Bus Line: Route You-1 connects key sights including Zhou Enlai's Hometown Scenic Area, He Xia Ancient Town, and the Inner Grand Canal Cultural Corridor
🚶 Day 1: Revolutionary Legacy & Ancient City Discovery
Morning: Zhou Enlai's Hometown Scenic Area (5A)
Begin at the Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall (free admission, reservation required, 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM, closed Mondays), the largest memorial dedicated to Zhou Enlai in all of China. The main exhibition hall, reminiscent of the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, houses an extensive collection of Premier Zhou's personal belongings, historical photographs, and documents that chronicle his extraordinary life of service. Allow at least 1.5 hours.
Then walk to Zhou Enlai's Former Residence (free, 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM) at No. 7 Fuma Lane. This is where young Zhou Enlai lived until age 12. The grey-brick and black-tile Ming-Qing architectural complex preserves the modest courtyard where the future premier was born and raised. The ancient well and old locust tree in the courtyard still thrive, offering an intimate glimpse into the leader's early life.
Lunch
Sample authentic Huaiyang snacks along Fuma Lane near the residence: Wenlou Crab Soup Dumplings (¥50-80 per steamer) are an unmissable Huaian specialty — translucent skin paper-thin yet miraculously intact, brimming with rich crab-infused broth. The proper technique: poke a small hole, sip the soup through a straw first, then enjoy the wrapper.
Afternoon: Huaian Prefecture Office & Grand Canal Museum
Huaian Prefecture Office (Ticket ¥60, 8:00 AM - 5:30 PM) was first built in 1370 (the third year of the Hongwu reign, Ming Dynasty) and is one of only two preserved ancient prefecture-level government offices in China. Known as "the textbook specimen of ancient Chinese official architecture," its over 600 rooms radiate imperial grandeur. The main hall, with its "Clear Mirror Hanging High" plaque, transports you back to a Ming-Dynasty courtroom.
Adjacent is the China Grand Canal Transport Museum (Ticket ¥40, 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM), which traces Huaian's glory days as the national command center for canal grain transport. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, millions of dan (≈60 kg each) of grain passed through Huaian annually, heading north to the imperial capital via the Grand Canal.
Evening: Inner Grand Canal Cultural Corridor
After dinner, stroll along the Inner Grand Canal Cultural Corridor (free). As dusk falls, the ancient canal banks light up with a mesmerizing glow. Traditional painted boats glide across the water. Take a night cruise (¥80/person) to soak in the historic ambiance. The illuminated Guoshi Pagoda and Qingjiangpu Tower create Huaian's most photogenic nightscape.
🚶 Day 2: Millennial Ancient Town & Water Forest Paradise
Morning: He Xia Ancient Town
He Xia Ancient Town (free) boasts over 2,500 years of history and is Huaian's best-preserved ancient town district. It's the hometown of Wu Cheng'en, the author of Journey to the West, and the birthplace of Liang Hongyu, the legendary female warrior of the Song Dynasty. Stroll the flagstone lanes and visit Wu Cheng'en's Former Residence (Ticket ¥40) to learn about the literary giant's life. Ming-Qing residences line Huzui Street and Guyii Street, where century-old shops still operate. Don't miss Cha San (crispy fried dough twists, ¥15-20 per bag), the town's iconic souvenir snack.
Lunch
In He Xia Ancient Town, savor Pingqiao Tofu (¥30-40), a Huaiyang cuisine masterpiece — silky tofu diced into diamond shapes and simmered in a broth enriched with chicken stock, dried scallops, and Jinhua ham. It dissolves on the tongue. Pair it with Soft-Sheathed Eel (Ruǎn Dōu Cháng Yú, ¥120-150), Huaian's signature dish: river eel fillets braised in aged black vinegar and soy sauce, impossibly tender and deeply savory.
Afternoon: Jinhu Water Forest Park
Drive to Jinhu Water Forest Park (Ticket ¥60, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM), about 1 hour from downtown. This is China's largest artificial wetland forest park, where thousands of dawn redwoods (Metasequoia) tower out of the water. Board a bamboo raft (¥30/person) and glide through the mirror-like waterways flanked by majestic water cypresses — the reflections create a fairy-tale landscape. In summer, temperatures here are 5-8°C cooler than the city, making it the ultimate escape from the heat.
Evening: Huaiyang Cuisine Feast
Return to the city for a full Huaiyang dinner at time-honored restaurants like Wen Lou or De Yue Lou:
- Crab Roe Lion's Head Meatball (¥68-88 each): A colossal pork-and-shrimp orb so tender it quivers, elevated with sweet crab roe
- Braised Shredded Dried Tofu (¥38-58): A showcase of Huaiyang knife skills — impossibly fine tofu threads in ham-infused chicken broth
- Pu Cai (¥35-50): Known as "the world's number one bamboo shoot," this unique aquatic vegetable grows only in Huaian's waters
🚶 Day 3: Hongze Lake Majesty & Culinary Heritage
Morning: Hongze Lake Ancient Levee Scenic Area
Hongze Lake (Ticket ¥80, including the levee), China's fourth-largest freshwater lake, stretches to the horizon in misty grandeur. The highlight is the Hongze Lake Grand Levee — begun in 200 AD (Eastern Han Dynasty) and stretching over 70 kilometers, it's one of the world's oldest and longest reservoir dams, nicknamed "the Great Wall on Water." Walk atop this millennium-old engineering marvel and feel the weight of history. Nearby, the Hongze Lake Stele Corridor features calligraphic inscriptions by poets and scholars across dynasties. Rent a bike (¥30/hour) to explore the levee, or take a lake cruise (¥60/person).
Lunch
Near Hongze Lake, feast on seasonal lake specialties: Hongze Lake Hairy Crab (best in autumn, ¥80-150 each) and Hongze Lake Crayfish (best in summer, ¥80-120 per serving). Hongze-raised crayfish are prized for their firm, plump meat — choose from thirteen-spice, garlic-butter, or numbing-spicy preparations. Outside crab season, steamed Hongze Lake Whitefish (¥60-80) is an exquisite alternative.
Afternoon: China Huaiyang Cuisine Culture Museum
Return to the city and visit the China Huaiyang Cuisine Culture Museum (Ticket ¥30, 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM), the first museum in China dedicated to a single culinary tradition. Through physical exhibits, scene reconstructions, and interactive experiences, the museum unveils the history, techniques, and cultural significance of Huaiyang cuisine. See a replica Manchu-Han Imperial Feast table, learn the stories behind iconic dishes like Soft-Sheathed Eel, and even try basic Huaiyang knife skills in the hands-on zone.
Evening: Qingyan Garden & Guandan Card Game
Qingyan Garden (Ticket ¥20, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM) is northern Jiangsu's finest classical garden, originally the rear garden of the Qing Dynasty River Administration Office. Lotus ponds, artificial rockeries, elegant pavilions, and winding corridors create an exquisite setting — perfect for hanfu (traditional costume) photography.
Afterward, settle into a local tea house and experience the quintessential Huaian pastime: Guandan! Born in Nanzha Town of Huaian in the late 1960s, this trick-taking card game has swept across China. Locals swear by the saying: "No Guandan before dinner means you haven't truly eaten." Don't worry if you're a beginner — warm-hearted Huaian locals will eagerly teach you.
🍜 Must-Eat Food
| Dish | Price | Recommended Spots |
|---|---|---|
| Soft-Sheathed Eel (鳝鱼) | ¥120-150 | De Yue Lou, Wen Lou |
| Wenlou Crab Soup Dumplings | ¥50-80/steamer | Wen Lou (He Xia) |
| Pingqiao Tofu | ¥30-40 | He Xia old restaurants |
| Crab Roe Lion's Head | ¥68-88 each | Huaiyang restaurants |
| Braised Shredded Dried Tofu | ¥38-58 | De Yue Lou |
| Hongze Lake Crayfish | ¥80-120 | Hongze Lake food stalls |
| Hongze Lake Hairy Crab | ¥80-150 each | Hongze Lake (Sep-Nov) |
| Cha San (Crispy Twists) | ¥15-20/bag | He Xia Ancient Town |
| Pu Cai (Aquatic Vegetable) | ¥35-50 | Local restaurants |
| San Sui Noodles | ¥15-20 | Street noodle shops |
💡 Practical Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer pleasant weather and seasonal delicacies. Summer (June-August) is ideal for Jinhu Water Forest escape and peak crayfish season. Winter is quieter with its own charm
- Accommodation: Stay in Qingjiangpu District or central Huai'an District near the Inner Grand Canal and Zhou Enlai sites for convenience. Budget hotels ¥150-250/night, mid-to-upscale ¥300-600/night
- Ticket Reservations: Zhou Enlai Memorial Hall requires advance reservation via the "Zhou Enlai Hometown Scenic Area" WeChat mini-program. Closed Mondays
- Trip Budget: Approximately ¥1,200-1,800 per person for 3 days (including accommodation, meals, tickets, and local transport) — excellent value
- Language: The local dialect is Jianghuai Mandarin, but standard Mandarin is widely spoken. A translation app is handy for deeper interactions
- Local Souvenirs: Cha San (crispy twists), dried Pu Cai, Hongze Lake salted duck eggs, Huaiyang-style pastries
- Pacing: Huaian's attractions are somewhat spread out. Hongze Lake and Jinhu are farther from downtown — consider renting a car or hiring a driver for Day 3 (full-day car hire approximately ¥400-500)
- Guandan: Don't leave without trying this local card game! Ask any tea house — locals are always happy to deal you in for a round