Xuancheng 3-Day Guide: Hometown of Chinese Brush Painting
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Xuancheng 3-Day Guide: Hometown of Chinese Brush Painting
Xuancheng 3-Day Guide: The Hometown of Chinese Brush Painting — Li Bai's Poetic Southern Anhui
Xuancheng, historically known as Xuanzhou or Wanling, nestles in the southeastern corner of Anhui Province at the heart of the Yangtze River Delta. It is the only city in China that produces all "Four Treasures of the Study" — Xuan paper, Xuan brush, Hui ink stick, and She inkstone — with Xuan paper craftsmanship recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The great Tang Dynasty poet Li Bai visited Xuancheng seven times, immortalizing it with the verse "We never tire of looking at each other — only the Jingting Mountain." With the full opening of the Hangzhou-Huangshan high-speed rail in 2024, Xuancheng has become the Yangtze Delta's beloved backyard, reachable in just 1.5 hours from Hangzhou.
Tucked at the 30th parallel north, this Hui-culture city lacks the crowds of Huangshan or the tourist bustle of Hongcun, yet offers the most authentic Hui cultural immersion and the most healing Jiangnan landscapes. Three days is enough to lose yourself in ancient alleyways, drift among green mountains and clear waters, and taste a thousand years of warmth in a steaming bowl of Hui cuisine.
🚶 Day 1: Poetry Mountain & Ink Heritage — Jingting Mountain & Xuan Paper
Morning｜Jingting Mountain (¥50)
Head straight to Jingting Mountain after arriving in Xuancheng. This modest 317-meter peak earned eternal fame through Li Bai's poetry. The best time to climb is early morning when morning mist still lingers — ascend the ancient Zhaoting steps through emerald bamboo groves, passing Li Bai's Solitary Pavilion, Taibai's Lonely Kiosk, and the thousand-year-old Zhaoting Temple. Terraced tea gardens cascade down the slopes — pick tea leaves in spring, admire autumn foliage in October. From the summit, the Shuiyang River winds like a jade ribbon encircling the entire city. The gentle trails suit all ages; allow 2.5–3 hours for a leisurely visit.
Lunch｜Farmhouse Dining at Jingting's Foot (¥40–60 per person)
Several Hui-style farmhouse restaurants cluster at the mountain base. Try "Shanli Renjia" (Mountain Home). Must-order dishes: Jixi fried vermicelli (¥18), hairy tofu (¥22), and a pot of Jingting Green Snow tea (¥15). Dining in a bamboo-garden courtyard with mountain breezes and birdsong is the most blissful midday moment of your trip.
Afternoon｜China Xuan Paper Cultural Park (¥60)
A 20-minute drive brings you to this UNESCO-recognized living museum. Witness the complete 108-step, 300+ day process of making Xuan paper — from bark selection through pulping, sheet-forming, pressing, and drying. The highlight is hands-on "paper scooping": stand beside a pulp vat, mimic the artisan's rhythmic shake of the bamboo screen, and watch a gossamer-thin sheet form before your eyes. This alone justifies the admission. The park also houses exhibitions of historic Xuan paper masterpieces and a craft shop where handmade Xuan paper stationery (from ¥30) makes the perfect souvenir.
Evening｜Zhuangyuan Road & Wanling Lake
As dusk falls, stroll along Zhuangyuan Road in the old city. Gray-brick Hui-style buildings glow golden in the setting sun, with small shops selling handcrafted Xuan brushes and ink stones along the way. Continue to Wanling Lake Wetland Park to watch waterbirds return to roost and sunset colors reflect across the lake. The 3.5-km lakeside loop is perfect for a post-dinner walk.
Dinner｜Hui Cuisine Feast (¥60–100 per person)
Recommended: "Apo Hui Cuisine" or "Xuancheng Zhuangyuan Lou" in the city center. Order an authentic spread: stinky mandarin fish (¥88 — smells pungent, tastes divine), Hu Shi's One-Pot (¥128 — a layered banquet dish from Hu Shi's hometown of Jixi), Shuidong old-style tofu (¥18). Cap the evening with a riverside walk along the Shuiyang River; weekend nights feature a light show.
🚶 Day 2: Ink-Wash Ancient Villages — Zhaji & Longchuan's Hui Architecture Code
Morning｜Zhaji Ancient Village (¥70)
Depart Xuancheng early, driving about 1 hour to Zhaji in Jing County. Zhaji is one of China's largest surviving clusters of Ming-Qing dynasty residences, hailed as "China's No.1 Ancient Village." The village preserves over 180 structures from the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, including 20+ stone bridges, 30+ ancestral halls, and 4 temples. Flagstone paths wind like a labyrinth, horse-head walls rise and fall in elegant rhythm, and streams thread through the entire village. Art students from fine arts academies sketch everywhere — Zhaji is known as "China's No.1 Sketching Village."
Key sites: Erjia Ancestral Hall (the best-preserved Ming-dynasty hall in Zhaji), Degong Hall (classic "four waters returning to courtyard" layout), and Red Chamber Bridge (the village's most photogenic spot). Reserve at least 3 hours — walking too fast means missing countless exquisite details.
Lunch｜Zhaji Farmhouse Feast (¥40–60 per person)
Dozens of family-run eateries dot the village. Recommended: "Huajiantang" guesthouse or "Guqiao Restaurant." Jingxian dried tofu (¥12, savory and aromatic), stone-grilled bamboo shoots (¥28, uniquely smoky from local stone slabs), and farmhouse chicken soup (¥68). If fortune smiles, the owner might pour you a cup of homemade rice wine (¥10).
Afternoon｜Longchuan Scenic Area (¥75)
Drive 40 minutes to Longchuan in Jixi County — the ancestral home of former President Hu Jintao and the cradle of the Hui Hu clan. The Hu Clan Ancestral Hall, known as "Jiangnan's No.1 Ancestral Hall," dates to the Song Dynasty with current structures rebuilt during the Jiajing era of the Ming Dynasty. The brick, wood, and stone carvings on its gatehouse are celebrated as the "Three Supreme Hui Carvings." A water channel runs through every household — called "Living Water Longchuan" — maintaining constant water levels regardless of drought or flood, a marvel of ancient hydraulic engineering.
Allow about 2 hours. If time permits, visit the nearby former residence of Hu Zongxian, a Ming Dynasty Minister of War whose mansion exemplifies elite Hui official architecture.
Evening｜Overnight in Jing County / Zhaji (¥150–300/night)
Strongly recommended: stay inside Zhaji village or in Jing County town. Zhaji's nights are profoundly quiet — crystal-clear starry skies, frog choruses and cricket songs lull you to sleep. If staying in Zhaji, walking the ancient lanes with a lantern after dinner is an experience no city can replicate. Jing County town offers more lodging choices: try "Jingchuan Hotel" or "Peach Blossom Pool Hotel."
🚶 Day 3: Ancient Trail or Poetic Pool — Your Choice
The final day offers two flavors — outdoor adventure or romantic poetry.
Route A: Hui-Hang Ancient Trail (¥62)
Rise early and drive 1.5 hours to Fuling Town in Jixi County. The Hui-Hang Ancient Trail, dating to the Tang Dynasty, spans approximately 75 km as the historic trade route linking Huizhou merchants to Hangzhou. Along with the Silk Road and the Tea Horse Road, it forms China's three great historic trails. Most hikers tackle the highlight section: "Jiangnan First Pass → Blue Sky Col → Yonglai Village" — about 15 km, moderate difficulty, 4–5 hours.
The path winds through bamboo forests, crosses mountain passes, and overlooks deep ravines. Jiangnan First Pass is the trail's most dramatic gateway, its stone inscription still clearly legible. Wild Boar Pond and Blue Sky Col are classic photo spots; when clouds roll in, the scene turns ethereal. Those with limited energy can hike halfway to Huangmao Peak and return (about 2 hours).
Lunch｜Trail Farmhouse (¥30–50 per person)
Simple farmhouse meals near Blue Sky Col: bamboo shoot braised pork, wild mountain vegetables, scrambled eggs with chives — humble but deeply satisfying.
Route B: Peach Blossom Pool (¥65)
For a gentler day, head to Taohuatan (Peach Blossom Pool) in Jing County. Li Bai's verse "The Peach Blossom Pool is a thousand feet deep, yet not as deep as Wang Lun's parting friendship" made this place legendary. Ride a traditional black-awning boat across the pool (¥30), flanked by indigo mountains and white-walled houses mirrored in the water. Treading Song Pavilion, Wenchang Pavilion, Zhai Clan Ancestral Hall — every corner whispers the story of Li Bai and Wang Lun.
Lunch｜Peach Blossom Pool Fish Pancakes (¥25–35)
The poolside restaurant "Taohua Jiujia" serves the essential local specialty: small fresh fish coated in batter and pan-fried golden — crispy outside, tender inside. Pair with a bowl of Peach Blossom Pool rice wine for a taste of Tang Dynasty nostalgia.
Afternoon｜Last Moments Before Departure
Route A hikers: on the return from the ancient trail through Jixi, pick up authentic Jixi hickory nuts (¥35–50/jin) as gifts. Route B visitors: after about 3 hours at Peach Blossom Pool, return via Jing County to shop for dried tofu, hairy tofu, and other local specialties.
Evening｜Farewell to Xuancheng
On the old street near Xuancheng Station, have one last plate of Jixi fried vermicelli (¥15) and a pot of Jingting Green Snow tea (¥20), letting Hui flavors linger on your tongue as you depart.
🍜 Must-Eat Food — The Flavors of Xuancheng
| Dish | Where to Find It | Price | What Makes It Special |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stinky Mandarin Fish | Apo Hui Cuisine, Zhuangyuan Lou | ¥88–128 | Hui cuisine's signature — pungent aroma, sublime taste |
| Hu Shi's One-Pot | Jixi county restaurants | ¥68–128 | Layered banquet centerpiece, named after the scholar |
| Jixi Fried Vermicelli | Street food stalls everywhere | ¥15–28 | Chewy noodles with fiery wok-charred flavor |
| Hairy Tofu | Jingting farmhouses, Zhaji | ¥12–22 | Fermented then pan-fried — crispy shell, creamy center |
| Jingxian Spiced Tofu | Jing County Old Street | ¥8–15 | Aromatic, spicy, perfect with drinks |
| Shuidong Old Tofu | Shuidong Old Street tofu shops | ¥10–18 | Silky smooth, intensely bean-fragrant |
| Peach Blossom Pool Fish Pancake | Poolside restaurants | ¥25–35 | Crispy battered fish — Li Bai's era snack |
| Ningguo Hickory Nuts | Ningguo specialty shops | ¥35–60/jin | Thin shell, plump kernel, rich aroma |
| Jingting Green Snow Tea | Jingting tea gardens | ¥68–198/jin | Sparrow-tongue shaped leaves, delicate sweetness |
🚄 Transportation Guide
Getting to Xuancheng
- High-Speed Rail — Xuancheng Station: Served by the Hangzhou-Huangshan HSR line. Hangzhou East → Xuancheng: ~1.5 hours (¥90), Nanjing South → Xuancheng: ~1 hour (¥80), Shanghai Hongqiao → Xuancheng: ~3 hours (¥160), Hefei South → Xuancheng: ~1.5 hours (¥100). From Beijing, transfer at Hefei or Nanjing.
- Wuhu Xuanzhou Airport (21 km from city center): Direct flights to Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Chengdu, Chongqing, Xi'an, and other major cities. Airport bus to city center: ~40 minutes (¥20).
- Self-Drive: G50 Shanghai-Chongqing Expressway and G4012 Liyang-Ningde Expressway run through. Shanghai: ~4 hours, Nanjing: ~2.5 hours, Hangzhou: ~2 hours by car.
Getting Around
- Public Bus: City attractions are reachable by bus, fares ¥1–2. Bus No. 5 runs directly to Jingting Mountain.
- Taxi/Ride-Hailing: City center flag fall ¥7. Xuancheng → Zhaji: ~¥150 (100 km).
- Self-Drive Highly Recommended: Rural attractions like Zhaji, Longchuan, and the Hui-Hang Trail have sparse public transport. Strongly consider renting a car or hiring a driver (¥350–500/day).
🏨 Where to Stay
- Xuancheng City Center: Jingting Mountain Resort Hotel (¥280–500), Xuancheng International Hotel (¥200–350), Blossom Hill · Xuancheng Old Street Inn (¥150–280)
- Zhaji Ancient Village: Zhaji Huajiantang (¥300–500), Zhaji Guqiao Inn (¥120–200) — sleeping in the ancient village is the quintessential "pillow-on-water Jiangnan" experience
- Jing County Town: Jingchuan Hotel (¥150–250), Peach Blossom Pool Hotel (¥200–350)
💡 Practical Tips
Best Time to Visit: Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) offer the finest scenery. April blankets Jing County fields in golden rapeseed blooms; October paints the Hui-Hang Trail in autumn foliage. Summer (June–August) is warm but mountain areas stay cool; winter sees few tourists but snow-dusted ancient villages are hauntingly beautiful.
Budget Reference (3 days, 2 nights, per person):
- Budget: ¥400–600 (hostel + bus + street food)
- Comfort: ¥800–1200 (budget hotel + hired car + proper meals)
- Premium: ¥1500–2500 (boutique guesthouse + private driver + Hui banquets)
Essential Tips:
- Climb Jingting Mountain early morning for the best experience; avoid midday summer heat
- Arrive at Zhaji before 4 PM for the best photography light
- Wear hiking shoes for the Hui-Hang Trail and carry enough water and snacks
- Xuan Paper Cultural Park is closed Mondays — plan accordingly
- Eat Jixi fried vermicelli while it's hot — it clumps when cold
- Buy Xuan paper at the Cultural Park or Scholar's Street, not from roadside stalls (mostly machine-made)
- Some old houses in Zhaji are private residences — ask permission before entering
- Mountain areas have significant day-night temperature swings; bring a light jacket in spring/autumn
- Some attractions offer discounts for advance booking via their official WeChat accounts
Three-Day Itinerary at a Glance:
- Day 1: Jingting Mountain → Xuan Paper Cultural Park → Zhuangyuan Road → Wanling Lake (city culture route)
- Day 2: Zhaji Ancient Village → Longchuan Scenic Area → Overnight in ancient village (Hui village route)
- Day 3: Hui-Hang Ancient Trail / Peach Blossom Pool → Departure (outdoor or poetic route)
Xuancheng may be small on the map, but it contains an entire Jiangnan within its borders. After three days, you'll carry home more than photos on your phone — you'll carry Li Bai's verses, the ink fragrance of Huizhou, Zhaji's flagstone paths, and the warm memory of a steaming plate of Jixi fried vermicelli.
"We never tire of looking at each other — only the Jingting Mountain." — Li Bai