Xuchang 3-Day Guide: Ancient Capital of the Three Kingdoms, Hometown of Jun Porcelain

Xuchang, hailed by Cao Cao as "the strategic hub of the empire," is a millennium-old city nestled in the heart of Henan Province. In the first year of the Jian'an era (196 AD) of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Cao Cao moved Emperor Xian of Han to this city, making Xuchang the political, economic, and cultural center of China at that time. Today, it boasts the most complete collection of Three Kingdoms-era relics in China, a living tradition of Jun porcelain kilns that have burned for over a thousand years, and Pang Donglai — the legendary department store dubbed "the ceiling of Chinese supermarkets." Three days are just enough to journey through a thousand years of history and discover this understated yet profound Central Plains gem.

🌤️ Best Seasons to Visit

Xuchang has a warm temperate monsoon climate with four distinct seasons — short springs and autumns, long summers and winters.

Spring (April–May) is the best season to visit, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. The willow trees along the moat turn lush green, flowers burst into bloom, and the weeping willows at Baling Bridge create a dreamy, mist-like scene — perfect for photography. This is also the spring sacrificial season at Guandi Temple, rich with cultural atmosphere.

Autumn (September–October) is equally wonderful, with temperatures of 18–25°C and crisp, clear skies. The ginkgo trees around Wenfeng Pagoda turn brilliant gold, and the thousand-year-old ginkgo king at Dahongzhai Mountain blazes with color, surrounded by maple-covered hills. The Dahongzhai Red Leaf Festival in October is a prime time for autumn hiking.

Summer (June–August) is hot and rainy, with highs often exceeding 35°C, though Shenhou Ancient Town and Huadu Hot Spring make good summer retreats. Winter (December–February) is cold and dry, with temperatures frequently dropping below freezing, but the ancient town in snow is hauntingly beautiful and hot spring bathing feels especially cozy in the chill.

🚄 Transportation Guide

Xuchang sits at the heart of the Central Plains, where the Beijing–Guangzhou High-Speed Railway and Zhengzhou–Wanzhou High-Speed Railway intersect, making it a key hub in the Central Plains urban cluster.

Arriving by High-Speed Rail:

• Xuchang East Station (high-speed rail): Located in the eastern district, about 6 km from the city center. A taxi ride costs approximately ¥15. Multiple bus routes run from the station directly to Cao Wei Ancient City.
• Xuchang Station (conventional rail): Right in the city center of Weidu District. A 5-minute walk from the station brings you to the south gate of Cao Wei Ancient City — incredibly convenient for visitors arriving from Zhengzhou and nearby cities.

High-Speed Rail Reference Fares (Second Class) from Major Cities:

• Zhengzhou East → Xuchang East: ~20 minutes, ¥30–45
• Beijing West → Xuchang East: ~3–3.5 hours, ¥310–350
• Wuhan → Xuchang East: ~2 hours, ¥200–230
• Xi'an North → Xuchang East: ~2.5 hours, ¥230–260
• Luoyang Longmen → Xuchang East: ~1 hour, ¥70–90
• Nanyang East → Xuchang East: ~40 minutes, ¥50–70

Getting Around the City:

• Public bus: ¥1–2 per ride, routes cover all major attractions
• Taxi/ride-hailing: starting fare ¥8 (includes 2 km), most trips between attractions cost ¥10–20
• Shared bikes: widely available across the city center, a delightful way to explore the old town
• Moat cruise boat: ¥30/person, a 40-minute scenic loop around the ancient city, though queues can be long during holidays — arrive early

Self-Driving Tips: Multiple expressways converge at Xuchang (G4 Beijing–Hong Kong–Macau, S88 Zhengzhou–Yaoshan, S83 Lanzhou–Nanyang). Exit at the Xuchang interchange and follow Liancheng Avenue straight to the city center. Roads to Shenhou Ancient Town are winding and steep — drive with extra caution. EV charging stations are well-distributed throughout the city.

🍜 Must-Eat Food

As a culinary stronghold of the Central Plains, Xuchang's cuisine embodies the essence of Henan cooking — from bustling morning market fare to elaborate intangible cultural heritage banquets, every meal tells a story.

1. Ma Wu Spicy Pepper Soup (胡辣汤) — ¥8/bowl The soul of a Xuchang breakfast. This 30-year-old establishment draws long queues every morning. The dark pepper soup is thick and translucent, with a pepper kick that jolts you wide awake. Pair it with pan-fried lamb buns (¥2 each) for the authentic experience. Address: 50 Guhuai Street, Weidu District. Arrive before 7:30 AM.

2. Yuzhou Thirteen Bowls (禹州十三碗) — from ¥58/serving A Henan Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage banquet consisting of 13 courses. The signature fermented tofu pork is glossy red and melt-in-your-mouth tender; the sesame leaf tofu soup is clean and soothing. The full banquet includes cold dishes, hot dishes, soups, and staples — ideal for groups of 4–6. Reservations required 2 days in advance. Address: intersection of Yinghe Street and Yangdi Avenue.

3. Wang Luo Braised Pork Trotters (王洛红烧猪蹄) — ¥78/piece The iconic dish of Wangluo Town in Xiangcheng County. Braised for over 4 hours, the trotters are fall-off-the-bone tender with a deep, savory soy glaze. Vacuum-sealed packs are available to take home. Multiple shops along Xiangcheng Ming-Qing Ancient Street.

4. Nao Dan Braised Noodles (孬蛋烩面) — ¥18/bowl The heavyweight champion of Xuchang's late-night food scene. Hand-pulled lamb noodles in a milky broth, best accompanied by grilled lamb skewers (¥5/skewer). Address: intersection of Xuefu Street and Weiwen Road. Open until 5 AM — the perfect first stop after a late train arrival.

5. Shundian Mixed Offal Stew (顺店杂炣) — ¥35/portion A specialty of Shundian Town in Yuzhou. Beef tripe, intestine, and heart are stewed together with handmade sweet potato vermicelli, finished with a spoonful of secret-recipe beef tallow chili oil — mildly spicy and deeply savory. Found in several old shops along the main street of Shundian Town.

6. Xuchang Hot Tofu (热豆腐) — ¥5–8/portion The most popular snack at Chunqiu Square Snack Street. Silky tofu is scooped from an insulated bucket, drizzled with secret chili sauce and garlic water, and eaten with a spoon — it dissolves on the tongue. Locals consider it their "late-night comfort food."

7. Yuzhou Steamed Starch (禹州焖子) — ¥15–20/portion A unique ingredient made by steaming and pressing sweet potato vermicelli. Slice it and pan-fry until golden on both sides, served with garlic dipping sauce; also delicious cold-tossed or in soup. This chewy, bouncy delicacy can only be tasted authentically in Xuchang.

📅 Three-Day Itinerary

🚶 Day 1: The Soul of the Three Kingdoms

At 8:30 AM, head to Cao Chancellor's Mansion (ticket ¥39, half-price for students, 8:00–18:00). This was Cao Cao's official residence when he was enfeoffed as King of Wei. Surviving relics include the troop-hiding tunnels and the reception hall. China's largest bronze statue of Cao Cao stands imposingly at the entrance. The Wei Wu Di Square hosts a nightly light show. Allow about 2 hours.

A 5-minute walk brings you to Spring and Autumn Tower (ticket ¥25), where Guan Yu is said to have read the Spring and Autumn Annals by lamplight. The temple grounds contain a grove of ancient cypresses, the oldest over 800 years. Wen'an Pavilion is where Guan Yu reportedly paid his daily respects to his sister-in-law. After 7:30 PM, the temple lights up in dazzling gold — a photographer's dream. Allow 1–1.5 hours.

Lunch at Chunqiu Square Snack Street: hot tofu (¥5) and pepper soup (¥8) make for a satisfying quick meal.

In the afternoon, visit Xuchang Museum (free, 9:00–17:00, closed Mondays). The collection's crown jewels include Han Dynasty "Xuchang Palace" tile-ends and a rubbing of Cao Cao's calligraphy Gun Xue (Rolling Snow). Artifacts from the Yuzhou Wadian site are also on display. Free guided tours at 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM daily. Allow about 1.5 hours.

As evening falls, stroll through Cao Wei Ancient City (free), a reconstructed district evoking the architecture of the Han-Wei period. Chunqiu Square comes alive with food stalls, and nighttime brings Hanfu parades and Three Kingdoms-themed performances. Stay at the nearby Rebecca Hotel (approx. ¥300–500/night) or Sanding Huayue Grand Hotel (approx. ¥400–600/night) — open your window to views of the illuminated moat.

🚶 Day 2: Jun Porcelain Quest and Hot Springs

Depart at 8:00 AM for Shenhou Ancient Town (free entry, some kiln sites ¥20–50). This thousand-year-old town is the "Capital of Jun Porcelain," with 72 ancient kiln sites along its old streets — some still burning today. Must-sees include Bolingweng Temple (Kiln God Temple) and the Huai Shu Wan International Wood-Fired Ceramics Village. Highly recommended: a hands-on Jun porcelain throwing workshop (approx. ¥150/person). Under a master's guidance, shape your own piece on the wheel — it will be fired and mailed home, a one-of-a-kind keepsake. Lunch in the ancient town: try Yuzhou Steamed Starch (¥15–20) and the Thirteen Bowls banquet (from ¥58). Allow 4–5 hours.

Around 3:00 PM, drive back toward the city to Huadu Hot Spring Town (entry ¥128–168), located in Yanling County, about 40 minutes from downtown Xuchang. The rose pool is kept at about 40°C; herbal pools offer options like angelica and mugwort. In winter, steam rises dramatically from the pools — soaking in hot water amid the cold air is especially indulgent. Option to stay in a star-gazing tent (approx. ¥398/night including breakfast for two), or return to the city after bathing.

🚶 Day 3: Mountains, Rivers, and Farewell to Cao Cao

In the morning, journey to Dahongzhai Scenic Area (ticket ¥50), located in northwestern Yuzhou, part of the Funiu Mountain range. In autumn, the thousand-year-old ginkgo king blazes brilliant gold — one of Henan's premier fall-color destinations. The area features a glass slide (¥40/ride) and a zip-line "flying man" experience (¥120/person). The mountaintop stargazing platform is open and free at night. Allow about 3 hours. Farmhouse restaurants at the entrance serve hearty countryside meals for lunch.

Return to the city in the afternoon. Around 3:30 PM, arrive at Baling Bridge Scenic Area (ticket ¥30, 8:00–17:30). This is where the famous Three Kingdoms episode of "Guan Yu Forsaking Cao Cao and Removing His Robe" took place. The extant three-arch bluestone bridge and the "Robe-Removing Pavilion" with its Ming Dynasty stele mark the spot. A bronze statue of Guan Yu on horseback faces the bridge as if about to cross the river and ride away. The willow-lined riverbank walk is at its most beautiful in spring, and the late afternoon sunlight filtering through the willow fronds creates the best photo moments. Occasional live Three Kingdoms performances are held at night. Allow about 1.5 hours.

In the early evening, visit Pang Donglai Angel City (free entry), the flagship store of "China's ceiling of supermarkets." Even if you don't plan to shop, it's worth visiting just to experience the legendary service — staff proactively help with your cart, and all items can be returned unconditionally with no questions asked. Pick up some Xuchang souvenirs: Yuzhou handmade vermicelli (¥20–30/pack), small Jun porcelain ornaments (¥30–100), and vacuum-sealed Wang Luo pork trotters (¥78/piece).

💡 Practical Tips

1. Accommodation: Strongly recommended to stay in or near Cao Wei Ancient City or the core Weidu District — walkable to most major attractions. Five-star Sanding Huayue: approx. ¥400–600/night. Four-star Rebecca Hotel: approx. ¥300–500/night (moat-view rooms available). Budget chain hotels: approx. ¥150–250/night. Characterful guesthouses in Shenhou Ancient Town: approx. ¥200–350/night.

2. Pang Donglai Tips: Angel City and Times Square are the two main stores. Note: Times Square is closed every Tuesday! Arrive on a weekday right at 9:30 AM opening time to beat the post-10:30 AM crowds. The viral mooncakes require online pre-booking.

3. Budget Reference: A comfortable three-day, two-night trip averages ¥600–800 per person (including accommodation, food, tickets, and transport). Budget travelers can manage ¥400–500.

4. What to Wear: For ancient city sites, Hanfu traditional clothing or dark-toned linen garments blend best with the historic backdrops. For Dahongzhai hiking, wear non-slip hiking boots and sun-protective clothing. Bring your own swimsuit and robe for Huadu Hot Spring.

5. Watch Out For: At Spring and Autumn Tower and Baling Bridge, arrive at least one hour before closing if you want to catch the nighttime lighting (night sessions may have separate ticketing). Roads to Shenhou Ancient Town are winding — drive slowly and carefully. Pang Donglai's bakery section sells out quickly in the morning — go early for the popular items.

6. Seasonal Events: The 13th day of the 5th lunar month is Guan Yu's Birthday, marked by grand ceremonies at Spring and Autumn Tower. October brings the Dahongzhai Red Leaf Festival and the thousand-year ginkgo viewing season. During Chinese New Year, Cao Wei Ancient City hosts large-scale lantern displays and folk performances.

7. Language: The Xuchang dialect belongs to the Central Plains Mandarin group and is very close to standard Mandarin — communication is effortless for Mandarin speakers. All major scenic area signage is bilingual (Chinese and English).